Montreal

Bonheur d’occasion  
Bonheur d’occasion (The Tin Flute) was a novel of urban social consciousness set during WWII in Saint–Henri. From the vantage point of this whitewashed bistro, the neighbourhood’s grit is mostly gone — it has the happy feel of talented friends pursuing a dream. Snow crab sandwiches on homemade buns have a gentle whiff of Maritime Quebec, a platter of juicy roast duck and crushed olives arrives with fragrant shiso leaves in lieu of Peking pancakes. Wafer–thin puff pastry, maple sugar and gobs of sweet clover cream are a modern masterpiece. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.

Mastard  
The French name of the restaurant translates to “big, husky person,” and the two adjectives describe chef Simon Mathys’ outsize presence in the Quebec culinary landscape as well as his love for it. His passion for local ingredients is palpable in dishes like the thick, ruby–red slice of tomato from La Ferme des Quatre–Temps, adorned in herbs and flowers and resting in a pool of camelina oil. A pour of hot, fragrant smoked–beef fat turns it into a salad with a sheen of cow – both fresh and elemental. Even the way Mathys acknowledges his entire staff on the menu is at one with this soulful and honest place. Listed as one of the Top 10 Canada’s Best New Restaurants of 2022.

Elena  
To see what’s making Montreal buzz, step into the electric Italian–modern comfort of Elena, a pizza and pasta restaurant from the Nora Gray team. Sit between a couture–cloaked Westmount family and a tattooed mother and son and chow down blistered, naturally leavened pizza showered with six kinds of mushrooms, celery root and taleggio; handmade mafalda with a pork and beef sugo; and zabaglione with marsala, rhubarb, strawberries and custard. The natural and biodynamic wine list is a liquid lecture on the purity, snap and vibrant acidity these wines can achieve. This is what it’s like to see a chef and her team at the top of their game. Listed as one of the Top 10 Canada’s Best New Restaurants of 2018.

Le Molière par Mousso  
An A–Team of Quebec chefs – Antonin Mousseau–Rivard and Daniel Vézina – rolled up to the Quartier des Spectacles and created a Parisian–style brasserie for the ages. Édith Piaf plays on repeat as grandes dames enjoy glasses of rosé with their Doré meunière, couples slurp back Veuve and oysters at the bar, and proud grandparents treat their granddaughter to spit–roasted chicken. A giant craquelin–topped profiterole, stuffed with thick cream and vanilla ice cream, is drenched in warm chocolate sauce. Instant classique. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.

Sachère Desserts  
Tucked away in the Village, this cozy (vegan–friendly) bakery is a little slice of heaven that draws on Asian–European inspiration. Owner Sonya Sammut takes cakes to the next level by ditching the buttercream and mounting them with velvety–smooth ganache. Not just pretty to look at, they feature mouthwatering flavours – like their signature cake, the Sacher Torte. Pair your coffee with a classic pastry or have fun choosing between the tarts of the day. In the summer, cool down with a refreshing ice–cream twist in cone or cup.

St–Viateur Bagel  
This shop has been hand–rolling bagels and baking them in a wood–burning oven since 1957. Locals, tourists and celebrities alike (it’s got Celine Dion’s and William Shatner’s seal of approval) pop into the 24–hour bakery for a dozen to go or an on–the–spot carb fix after a night on the town.

9 Tail Fox  
This packed Korean tapas spot is like a glass of its orange wine: different, a little unstructured, but ultimately delicious. Chefs move around the open kitchen like the Blue Man Group, crisping tempura oyster mushrooms, and banging pans of kimchi–bacon fried rice and wok hei–tinged duck hearts with garlic scapes. Legend has it the kumiho, or nine–tailed fox, represented here in pink neon above the corner lot door, was sent to seduce. The story checks out. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.

J’ai Feng  
If you manage to wrangle one of just four stools at this Little Italy grocery store, prepare yourself for super–slippery and explosive noodle bowls, which are bound to splatter as you hurry them into your mouth. Menus change at the whim of chef Anita Yue Ming Feng: We got chunks of tender braised beef, daikon and Chinese five spice in one dish, and silky shards of tofu, green peas, pickled mustard greens and Sichuan peppercorns in another. Throw in some cooling salads from the grocery side of the shop and a just–sweet–enough Japanese dessert from Pâtisserie Maru and, though it’s only lunchtime, you won’t be “Feng” (a.k.a. “faim,” French for hungry) for the rest of the day. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.

Vin Mon Lapin  
The green of potted plants dapples the white walls of this Little Italy oasis, where stellar natural wines play off layered flavours and textures. A dazzling salad of endive, caramelized pumpkin seeds, pickled elderberries and shaved foie gras matches with the creamy minerality of a Loire Valley Domaine du Haut–Planty muscadet, while aromatic Jerusalem–artichoke bread topped with sunflower crumble finds a partner in a sunflower butter. No reservation? No problem. The Mon Lapin servers will come by with words of encouragement and magnum pours of pet nat while you wait, making you feel like the centre of the party. Listed as one of the Top 10 Canada’s Best New Restaurants of 2018.

Anemone  
It’s a Thursday night at 8:30 p.m. and there are two couples making out at the bar. The music is pulsing indie pop by Bon Enfant; an open garage door leads to twinkly string lights on the backyard patio. Order a bottle of natural Vin Nouveau l’Orange, a few temaki rolls filled with delicious things like beef topped with crispy little frites, and warm roasted bone marrow stuffed with a cool salad of Matane shrimp and spring onion. This place is a whole vibe. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.

Emmanuelle Lounge  
On the 5th floor of the glass–encased 2–22 building, Emmanuelle is a lounge and not a bar, nor a typical restaurant, and even less a club. The chic interior features leather sofas and low tables, while the menu highlights refined small dishes like oysters with caviar and sour cream, a foie gras and strawberry tart, green pea agnolotti and wagyu tartare. The concept was imagined by industry veteran Donald Lauture, with design by Atelier Zebulon Perron and a menu signed by Chef Nicholas Bramos.

Pichai  
With a shoutout to Bangkok’s storefront aluminum roller shutters and curry shop tiles, this new spot from the team behind Épicerie Pumpui exudes a retro magic pumped up by the dance and alt–music soundtrack. A sweet, sour and herbaceous laab ped made with minced duck meat and duck hearts satisfies our craving for the electric flavours of Bangkok, while a dish of tender grilled veal tongue with a gentle nam jim tao jiao (fermented soy and garlic–tamarind dipping sauce) takes us to a mellow beachside resort. Cheerful service and the fine bubbles of a Chemin des Sept Turbo Brut cider add to the night’s sparkle. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.

Cabaret L’Enfer  
Sprinkled with fresh pink rose petals, the fish course is a mindbender, the aroma more Dior than wild striped bass. With its sauce of locally grown saffron and stinging nettles, what it shares with the other six courses is chef Massimo Piedimonte’s urban take on terroir. Charlevoix lamb is cured and fire–roasted; lobster–stuffed cappellacci tastes like the essence de homard. Asparagus is prepared five ways in one tiny bowl, and there are two playful desserts (parsley sorbet, skull meringue), every bite a Montreal moment.

Wills Beer  
This urban brewery in Montreal’s burgeoning Mile–Ex neighbourhood comes care of cousins Alex and Ethan Wills (cofounder of lauded restaurant Larry’s), who both live steps away. Grab some cans at the bottle shop – perfect for a picnic in a nearby park – or take a seat at Wills Bar next door to get a taste of the laid–back life. Fun fact: The retro–chic logo was inspired by Alex’s uncle, Ernst Barenscher, the man behind iconic Canadian designs like Ontario’s trillium symbol.

Dalla Rose  
Nora Gray alums chef Mike Dalla Libera and former general manager Nick Rosati spin handmade artisanal ice cream daily using milk sourced from northern Quebec at this Saint–Henri hot spot. The crèmerie has a rotating selection of seasonal flavours (including two vegan options), like sponge toffee, Quebec lavender and vegan haskap.

Les Mômes  
Your bottle is immediately placed in colourful tabletop silicone chillers at this vintage–inspired BYOB spot, run by a couple with an eco–friendly ethos. Enticing combinations of local ingredients show up in beef tartare spun with the gentle tang of sea urchin, and tuna seared and served in a bright sauce vierge. Homey pan–seared gnocchi is the house specialty, tossed with braised lamb and pops of cherry tomatoes tonight. In this lively Villeray atmosphere, staff act like nice neighbours as they drop off a sweet religieuse for dessert. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.

Nita  
Every sandwich is made from scratch at this unpretentious Mile End spot (named after chef and cofounder Jessiah MacDonald’s grandmother), down to the fresh–baked bread, cold cuts and condiments. There’s also a custom blended filter coffee, seasonal sodas and a wall of private import wines, to–go or by–the–glass. Order a “Sandwich du Moment” or permanent classics like veggie paté, gravlax and the ridiculously addictive breakfast sandwich, with or without sausage patty.

Larrys  
Start your morning with a cappuccino made with Portland’s Heart Roaster beans, then head back in the evening, friends in tow. Wash down small plates, like the beef tartare or the Albacore ceviche, with a selection from the natural–centric wine list, a pint of Pippin cider or a glass of Ontarian riesling beer.

Gia Vin & Grill  
The team behind Nora Gray and Elena once again demonstrates its unerring sense of what hip Montreal wants to eat, here with an irresistible menu centred on arrosticini (grilled skewered meat of the Abruzzo region of Italy). Yet, in this converted cinder–block building in the historic RCA complex, the antipasti (crunchy fish croquettes on a dill–scented yogurt aioli or fresh radishes nestled in a bed of both emulsified and toasted hazelnuts, drizzled with honey), pastas (garlic, mint and chili–spiked spinach bucatini) and natural wines are equally essential to the chill, happy buzz. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.

Champs  
This long–time Boulevard Saint–Laurent watering hole got a major facelift when it was bought by a group of friends who wanted to make a new generation of sports fans feel welcome. Renovations were done with care – you will still find pool tables, beer and graffiti, but also a respectable wine list and tons of LGBTQ+ friendly events. Expect MMA fights and NHL games on the overhead screens, but also regular nights like Drag Race watch parties, queer line dancing, film screenings and clothing swaps.