The oyster earrings give her away. Barbara Johnson, founder of Great Delta Tours, a tour group committed to a positive impact on the planet, ushers me into a van bound for the Southern Seaplane airport. The fog lifts as we leave the Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans and head to Belle Chasse.
We’re going to Grand Isle, Louisiana’s last inhabited barrier island. The seaplane roars to life with me in the co–pilot seat, a blue heron watches from the riverbank. The skies are moody flying over the waterways, with brief streaks of sunlight shining through the clouds. Wide swathes of green land covered by shrubs and moss punctuate the glassy water. Dilapidated Civil War boats half sunk and remnants of forts jut out from the water, and a Filipino village from the 1930s sits abandoned in the marsh.