We invented a game shortly after arriving in Tokyo, and we’re calling it Kawaii Quest. The challenge: Be the first to spot an adorable cartoon animal, be it cat, bear, owl or undefined with ears. Call out Kawaii! * and punch the other players on the arm (Punch Buggy, No Punch Backs–style). Dear reader, don’t initiate this game if you’re busy navigating the subway system or deciphering soba noodle menus – your arm will be sore.
At the entrance to the Ghibli Museum, a whimsical theme park on the west side of the city, I spot a massive Totoro behind the ticket counter. We expected to see fantastical creatures on this trip to the homeland of Pokémon – it’s a big reason my nine–year–old son Hank and I have come to Japan – but the apex is this mystical forest spirit created by Studio Ghibli. Director Hayao Miyazaki, whose supernatural tales offer eye–level environmentalism for kids and adults, is a hero of Japanese anime. He’s also a hero for many overseas parents obsessed with cult classics like My Neighbor Totoro and the Academy Award–winning Spirited Away. Riding a steampunk elevator to the second floor, we get a peek at his creative process in a recreation of his office, where watercolours of Japanese landscapes are tacked up with push–pins above the ashtray on his desk. Downstairs, 3–D scenes come to life at the push of a button to reveal the secrets of film magic.