Tokyo
Prepare to get lost in Japan’s capital city, where addresses are notoriously tricky to parse. But whatever you’re seeking, it’s here: sleek modern architecture and venerable shrines; frenetic neon–lit streets and serene onsens; Michelin–starred restaurants (the world’s densest concentration) and slurp–and–go ramen.
Eat & Drink
Jomon Roppongi
For killer kushiyaki, you can’t top Jomon (hint: their Roppongi outpost is easier to find than their semi-hidden location in Shibuya). Gizzards, tongues and tails are on offer here, but there’s also plenty of top-notch Japanese bar fare for the less adventurous. Wash it all down with shochu or sake.
Fuglen Tokyo
Fuglen stands out on the Tokyo coffee scene, thanks to its espresso and its decor, an eclectic mix of dark teak wood, mid-century furniture and vintage paraphernalia. It’s the perfect spot for an afternoon pick-me-up and a quick bite after visiting the nearby Meiji Shrine, one of Tokyo’s most popular attractions.
Rokurinsha
This busy noodle bar specializes in tsukemen, a popular style of ramen in Tokyo, where a bowl of plain noodles is served next to a rich soup. Dip your noodles in the broth, slurp, and repeat until you’re finished or ready for a noodle top up. This nondescript ramen shop, hidden in the basement of Tokyo station, is a local favourite (so be prepared for wait times up to 40 minutes).
Gen Yamamoto
Presiding over a counter crafted from a 500-year-old slab of mizunara oak, Gen Yamamoto is one of Tokyo’s most famous bartenders. The cocktail menu at this eight-seat bar showcases national ingredients like Nagano quince, Shizuoka wasabi and Gunma strawberry.
Sushisho Masa
There are seven seats and no menu (except for the sake list) at this restaurant in Roppongi. Let chef Masakatsu Oka and his apprentices guide you through an extensive tasting-menu featuring over 40 sushi pieces, such as thinly sliced fatty tuna with wasabi and salt-grilled anago conger eel. Book reservations well in advance.
Gonpachi
The courtyard-style interior of this restaurant was the inspiration for the House of Blue Leaves, the fictional location where the Bride and the Crazy 88 (O Ren Ishii’s personal army) duke it out in Quentin Tarantino’s Kill Bill: Volume 1. The menu includes classics like grilled skewers and tempura – and affordable cocktails – with vegan and halal options available.
What to Do
Nezu Museum
This gem in upscale Minami-Aoyama offers a quieter alternative to the bustling Ueno museum district. Nineteenth-century railway tycoon Nezu Kaichirō’s collection of premodern Japanese and East Asian art was unusually broad, ranging from sculpture and calligraphy to ceramics and armour. Architect Kuma Kengo’s building and pristine Japanese garden are worth the visit alone.
Harajuku
Make like a local in the kawaii mecca and enjoy a sweet crêpe from Marion Crêpes on Takeshita Dori, the neighbourhood’s main street. Then head to Kiddy Land, one of the city’s largest toy stores, and check out the floors that are dedicated to Hello Kitty and Snoopy.
Chidorigafuchi Park
Hanami, literally meaning “flower viewing,” refers to the period between March and April when people all over the nation stand in awe of Japan’s pink cherry blossoms. For a magical hanami experience, rent a boat at Chidorigafuchi Moat and paddle through the sakura-covered waters surrounding the Imperial Palace.
Found Muji Aoyama
Muji’s creative team scoured the world, amassing mainstay housewares that fit the Muji philosophy of well-crafted minimalism. Recent examples include Terracotta dinnerware, glass sake bottles and Tokyo-grown cypress trays.
Tokyo Imperial Palace
The five-kilometre trail around the Imperial Palace is a favourite for runners from dawn to dusk. Soak in the views of Edo Castle before stopping at the Runbase, near the Takebashi subway station, where change rooms and showers are available.
United Arrows
Known for its elegant take on wardrobe essentials, quality craftsmanship and collaborations with big names like Adidas, this Japanese retailer has over 35 stores nationwide.
Daikanyama Tsutaya Books
Browse books, magna and magazines in one of the city’s largest bookstores (it spans three buildings). The award-winning modernist complex is worth a trip just to see its basket-weave façade. The Anjin Library & Lounge offers an on-site cocktail bar and a dining menu.