“This year’s cohort of new restaurants
is a sentimental bunch“
By Tara O’Brady
Photography by Johnny C.Y. Lam
Family, by blood and by choice, are the backbone of their decisions both grand and granular.
The names of founder Lenny Moy’s children—Janelle, Evan, and Cailee—fuse into Janevca, the restaurant inside Rosemead House in Victoria. Claire Jacques, in Montreal, honours a pair of grandparents. Vancouver’s June and Lala draw from the co-proprietors’ lineages; Cam Watt’s mother and Keenan Hood’s daughter, respectively. Their most well-known dish, Pasta for Rachel, is the namesake of Chef Connor Sperling’s wife.



From a young age on her parents’ farm, Chef Renée Girard learned that “it’s people that not only make it happen but make it all worthwhile.” Shirley’s is named for her maternal grandmother, who once dreamed of opening a place of her own. Girard’s partner crafted much of the design, millwork, and construction. Friends pitched in with paintbrushes and final flourishes, some staying on as staff.


Wide wale corduroy booths at Linny’s, designed by family friend Jack Lipton of IPSO Studio, recall owner David Schwartz’s childhood couch. The pattern of burl wood walls references his mother Linda’s flair for design, her leopard-print armchair rendered in grain. The plasterwork recreates the particular swoop of her cake frosting. Bowtie lokshen is handmade for the kasha varnishkes, a tender upgrade from the boxed version Schwartz remembers his father eating.

Through the progression of Neo-Chinese courses at Yan Dining Room, Chef Eva Chin retells her story in food that speaks of migration, custom, and personal revolution. You don’t only eat, you listen, as the cuisine of her ancestors and her experience meets the life she’s made for herself.
Chefs Stephen Baidacoff and Nick Yuli Lin met at Campagnolo in 2017. Now, they manage every aspect of No. 8 together, with an unshakeable belief in each other’s abilities as a foundational element. “It’s a restaurant uniquely run by two chefs who are also long-time friends,” Baidacoff says. “We make every choice side-by-side.” The technique-driven result is ultimately personal. Lin’s outstanding jiao zi, complete with his XO sauce, is part of the French dégustation menu.

Antonio Migliarese grew up in restaurants, starting as a busboy in his father’s dining room. His mother left her nine-to-five at the bank to run the kitchen. After his father’s passing, Migliarese carried the legacy forward; first with DOP, now with Bar Rocca and DOPO. Family photos hang on the walls. His mother’s tiramisu is on the menu, her phone number printed beside it in invitation to connect. She answers every message. More than 1,200 so far. “That’s how we keep my father’s spirit alive,” Migliarese says, “one table, one conversation, and one shared meal at a time.”

At Maven, Chef Shauna Godfrey clips her bubbe Rose’s coleslaw recipe to the bill. The challah served is the same they braided on sleepover nights together. In Godfrey’s words, “Maven speaks to a longer history of community, care, and storytelling through food that exists in all cultures.”
There’s familiarity in honest nostalgia. Even if the memories aren’t our own, we share them anyway. It’s what allows places like these to linger in our affection—not only for the food, but for being welcomed like a regular, like someone who is part of the family.
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