A stillness settles upon entry into Sushi Hyun Omakase. Turn the corner from the bustle of Robson St, open the door and be transported. Chalky walls form a transitional hallway, a lit alcove at the far end beside a yuzu tree beckon guests to make the journey.

“This passage offers both a mental and emotional shift,” explains chef-owner Ju Hyun Li. “An intentional pause before entering the intimate dining space.”

Designed in collaboration with Vancouver-based boutique firm Meetek, the interior is spare, while harmonious, comfortable. All surfaces are smooth, except for a section of wall clad in strata of stone.

Li’s wife, who studied interior design, worked closely with the firm to create a space that was as aesthetically beautiful as it was functional. The soul and stage of the dining room is the hinoki counter, a 200-year-old slab of Japanese cypress, naturally dried and left uncoated. Before each service, it is polished by hand, to release its citrus-like scent. Niches and ledges hold seasonal ikebana and ceramics, which shift throughout the year, reflecting the restaurant’s deep ties to kaiseki philosophy.

In a minimalist space, every object becomes a statement. To include guests in the ceremony of the meal, and in a way of the design itself, Li offers a collection of sake cups gathered across Japan, each with their own character and story, including Edo Kriko cut glass. “Guests are invited to choose the cup that speaks to them, allowing each person to enjoy sake in a vessel that feels uniquely theirs, whether in texture, weight, or design,” Li says.”This is our way of making even a small moment deeply personal.”

At Sushi Hyun the details are understated but certain. They ask for attention without shouting, and are as purposeful as Li is himself.