SO/ Auckland
For the stylish esthetic
Auckland
AKL
Lord of the Rings may have put New Zealand on the tourism map, but its biggest city is a far cry from Middle Earth. Luxury hotels are changing the seaside landscape, yet Auckland retains its sense of history and Kiwi hospitality. Hit the rooftop bars in the bustling CBD (central business district) or escape to an island vineyard; just don’t leave without sampling the fresh oysters.
Where to Stay
Hotel DeBrett
For the Instagrammable design
Franklin 38
For the elevated B&B charm
Fable Auckland
For the historic glamour
Heritage Auckland
For top-rated amenities
Four Points by Sheraton Auckland
For the city’s best view
Delamore Lodge
For the Waiheke Island setting
Eat & Drink
Sid at the French Café
Husband-and-wife team Sid and Chand Sahrawat – the duo behind top Auckland restaurants Sidart and Cassia – took over the French Café in 2018. If you can’t choose between the cured salmon, Hawke’s Bay lamb and veal tartare, opt for the tasting menu; a vegetarian-friendly version is also on offer.
Depot
When Kiwi celebrity chef and cookbook author Al Brown opened Depot, he envisioned a restaurant that captured the esthetic and informal atmosphere of a New Zealand bach (holiday home) – no white tablecloths here. There are plenty of oysters, cooked over charcoal or native hardwood for succulent flavour.
Caretaker
You won’t need the menu at this nearly hidden bar that’s best known for handcrafted cocktails tailored to your tastes. Tell the bartender what you like, and they’ll personalize your drink based on recipes from the 18th to early 20th centuries. Several nights a week, you can also sip your drink to the tune of live jazz.
Rothko
Sculptureum, the sculpture garden, took Anthony and Sandra Grant a decade to develop on the 25-acre property and now includes six art galleries. That same degree of care went into the restaurant, Rothko. Expect seasonal dishes with ingredients from local producers – such as Mount Cook salmon or spiced lamb shoulder with caramelized cauliflower – as well as wines from the on-site vineyard.
Café Hanoi
This restaurant may be based on the Old Quarter of its namesake city and use traditional cooking techniques, but the food is decidedly modern. Crispy soft shell crab is cooked in a tamarind sauce with fresh dill, while sustainably farmed kingfish is served with lemon grass, palm sugar and Thai basil oil. Marou dark chocolate with sour-cherry sorbet is the perfect sweet note to end on.
Hallertau
One of the most popular brews at Hallertau is #09, a light, easy-drinking beer designed for hot summer days. Dedicated to Auckland, it’s available only in its home city. A love for all things local is also evident on the menu: Produce comes from the on-site garden, eggs are laid by free-range chickens, and sauces are made in-house.
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What to Do
Waiheke Island
This island is known for olive groves and vineyards, but it’s also home to artisans and makers. Walk into Timmy Smith’s store and you’ll likely be offered tea to sip while perusing her handmade jewellery and leather wares. At Veranda, look for works from Thea Ceramics, which are hand-thrown on the island. Waiheke can be done in an afternoon but deserves a weekend if you can spare it.
Ponsonby Road
Montreal has Saint-Laurent, Toronto has Queen Street West and Auckland has Ponsonby Road. Considered one of the hippest places to be seen, there’s also plenty to see on this trendy strip, just a short distance from the CBD. The Poi Room, for one, carries pounamu (greenstone) carved by contemporary Maori artists, while the Garden Party is the place to find Kiwiana textiles, including native-bird cushion covers by local artist Reuben Price.
Mount Eden
Auckland’s landscape is punctuated by 48 ancient volcanic cones (don’t worry – all dormant). At 196 metres, Mount Eden is the city’s highest natural point and takes only about an hour to climb. Don’t miss the award-winning garden, visited by native birds, such as tui and bellbirds. Maori tour company Tāmaki Hikoi also offers guided walks, illuminating the area’s cultural and spiritual significance to the Ngāti Whātua iwi (tribe).
Auckland Fish Market
Although Auckland Fish Market, which sells the widest range of seafood in the country, has been around for more than 100 years, 2019 marked a new era following a massive revamp. You’ll still find the oldest fishmonger in New Zealand (Sanford and Sons), alongside eateries (from sushi to gelato) and a courtyard bar selling craft brews.
The Shuckle Ferry
Since the early 1970s, the nutrient-rich bays of Mahurangi Harbour have provided the perfect home for Pacific oysters. On New Zealand’s only oyster-farm tour, you’ll learn the history and science while collecting fresh bivalves right from the water. Enjoy them fresh or barbecued with butter, Tabasco and shallot mignonette; it’s all you can eat, provided you do the shucking.
Allbirds
You’ve probably noticed Allbirds from Instagram ads declaring them “the world’s most comfortable shoes.” What you may not know is the Kickstarter success story has local roots: Founder Tim Brown is a Kiwi, and the shoes are made with New Zealand merino wool. Now, here at its first New Zealand shop – opened in 2019 – you can try on a pair on the brand’s home turf.
AJ Hackett Bungy
Queenstown may be considered the adventure capital of the world, but you need not make your way there to get your heart racing. Auckland is where the commercial bungee was pioneered, when A.J. Hackett jumped off the Greenhithe Bridge in 1986. For NZ$175, you can make the leap or try the SkyJump (NZ$235): an adrenaline-pumping plunge from the Sky Tower, New Zealand’s highest building.
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