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Dubbed Canada’s Festival City for its year‑round abundance of events, Edmonton always seems to have a party happening, even during its famously glacial winters. Shiny new attractions, including the ICE District – a multi‑billion‑dollar sports and entertainment hub – and the recently opened Royal Alberta Museum, make the list of must‑dos even longer.
Where to Stay
French-inspired comfort food at Partake Grab a window table at this cozy neighbourhood gem and dig into coq au vin and beef tartare – Partake’s flawlessly executed classic menu has made it a contender for Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2019. The cocktails are just as stellar; try the refreshingly tart No. 2, made with Victoria Distillers Empress 1908, an indigo gin that turns ruby-pink when citric acid is added.
Inventive small plates at Biera Chef Christine Sandford, alumna of the Michelin-starred In de Wulf, helms the kitchen at this restaurant, tucked inside a Ritchie Market brewery. Nothing on the menu is ordinary: Even the salads are masterful displays of colour and texture. Try the Humboldt squid with housemade sambal and black garlic glaze, the charcoal-grilled pork shoulder or sourdough nuggets topped with foamy Alpindon beer cheese – it’s impossible to pick a favourite.
Hand-smashed patties at Woodshed Burgers This is next-level Alberta beef: premium Holstein, cooked to order and served on fresh-baked buns with housemade condiments. The crispy chicken burger deserves a nod, too, as does the hefty Effing Fish Filet, featuring Icelandic cod sourced from Edmonton’s popular (and gregarious) fishmonger, Effing Rob.
Real-deal Italian at Cibo Bistro An Edmonton strip mall may not be the obvious place to look for some of the best hand-rolled pastas in town. But Cibo’s owner/chef, Rosario Caputo, and his sommelier wife, Lisa, travel to Italy every two years for culinary inspiration, reflected here in dishes like charred octopus with fennel fronds, and tagliatelle with a tail and cheek ragu.
Asian-inspired cocktails at Baijiu Designed to resemble a Shanghai speakeasy, this restaurant serves up inventive drinks – like the Henny & Tea, Hennessy VS chased with house-brewed cold green tea – to pair with chef Alexei Boldireff’s creative Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese fusion dishes. Ask nicely and the staff will show you to Little Hong Kong, the hidden bar within the bar.
Chicken-liver tartine at Bündok Owner/chef Ryan Hotchkiss creates dishes full of flavour, texture and interest – and adds little surprises, like partnering pommes dauphine with harissa aioli, or spiking delicate sea-bream crudo with citrus and chili oil. Don’t miss the chicken-liver tartine, a velvety-smooth thing of beauty.
Hands-on how-tos at Get Cooking Along with some of the city’s finest guest chefs, Le Cordon Bleu (London) graduate Kathryn Joel will school you in cooking modern and classic dishes from around the globe. The three- to four-hour classes, from Italian date-night dinners to Mexican taco parties, are always fun, and come with wine or drink pairings included.
Artisanal souvenirs at Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market Open Saturdays year-round, this indoor market is a local haunt for baked goods, just-picked produce, handmade jewellery, art and textiles. Take home raw honey from Meadow-Sweet Apiaries or try freshly made green onion cake, Edmonton’s quintessential festival food. Once you’ve browsed the 130 vendors here, you’re a half block to the shops on Whyte Avenue, the main thoroughfare in trendy Old Strathcona.
Canadian culture at the Art Gallery of Alberta Contemporary Canadian abstract canvases and sculpture make up a great deal of the AGA’s permanent trove, but fans of historical photography, prints and paintings will have plenty to peruse, too. The three-floor structure is also a work of art: Architect Randall Stout drew inspiration from both the aurora borealis and Edmonton river valley.
Homegrown fashion at the Bamboo Ballroom A destination for the city’s style set since 2005, this Old Strathcona boutique specializes in spotlighting Canadian labels. Find West Coast casual womenswear by Vancouver’s Gentle Fawn, vegan-leather bags by Montreal’s Matt & Nat, and kiddie clothing by Lil’ Rascalz Shop (its own in-house brand).
Toasting the city with Edmonton Craft Tours The local craft-brew scene has been growing ever since government rules on minimum production were relaxed in 2013, allowing small makers to get into the game. Book a guided tasting with Edmonton Craft Tours, where you’ll learn Ingredients 101 (all about yeast, malt, hops, water) while sampling suds at popular spots like Situation Brewing, Blind Enthusiasm and Yellowhead Brewing.
Song and dance at Spotlight Cabaret At this new-to-the-scene, Roaring ’20s–themed venue just off Whyte Avenue in Old Strathcona, comedy, theatre, live bands, burlesque and drag are on show. If you’re ready to take the mic yourself, Sunday nights are for karaoke parties.
Local history at the Royal Alberta Museum At the new RAM, opened in 2018 and now Western Canada’s largest museum, you’ll find galleries chronicling the history of Alberta’s people, wildlife and landscape, with Indigenous stories woven throughout, as well as 18,000 artifacts of Indigenous origin, some dating to the mid-1800s. (An Indigenous advisory panel gave input on caring for items in a culturally sensitive way.) One gallery showcases just one object: the Manitou Asinîy (Manitou Stone), a sacred and ancient 145-kilogram meteorite.
Fancy footwear at Gravitypope This indie fashion institution has locations in Calgary, Vancouver and Toronto, but it’s a native Edmontonian. The original Whyte Avenue space is entirely devoted to shoes – from hipster sneaks to designer heels – from more than 100 brands, including its own made-in-Italy/Portugal label. A sister clothing shop, Gravitypope Tailored Goods, is just a few doors down.
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