St. John’s, Newfoundland
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At first glance, North America’s most easterly city may have a West Coast semblance (the colourful row houses and hilly terrain are San Fran-esque), but St. John’s has a personality all its own. Standing here since the 16th century, it remains true to local traditions, from the salt-cod cuisine to quirky Christmastime mummering (making house calls to friends, dressed in disguise).
Eat & Drink
Battery Café
The Battery Café is a great bet for barista-brewed coffee, takeout smoked-salmon bagel sandwiches and bottles from Quidi Vidi Brewing.
Black Cat Pizzeria
The cat’s out of the bag. Once a pop-up at Terre Restaurant in Alt Hotel, Black Cat Pizzeria is now serving up its Detroit-style pies from its own downtown digs – complete with a homey cherry tomato and chili garden in the front window. Toppings here include Rhubarbecue Chicken (featuring housemade rhubarb barbecue sauce), Bacon Jam Chanterelle and of course, donair sauce. But the best way to appreciate the texture on chef Albin Jose Toms’ naturally fermented sourdough crust is to stick with basics – classic cheese or pepperoni – edge slices preferred. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2024.
Chinched
Squid, a.k.a. calamari, is bait fish in Newfoundland, so it’s all the more alluring here marinated in gochujang and charbroiled to a perfect texture. Chef-owners Shaun Hussey and Michelle LeBlanc source all they can from the province, from heritage pigs for the house-cured charcuterie to the Rock’s renowned root vegetables. Try the buttered charred carrots, served with crunchy farro, chickpea vinaigrette and a refreshing dollop of crema.
Mallard Cottage
In a remodelled two-century-old heritage house in sleepy Quidi Vidi Village, hometown chef Todd Perrin and sommelier Stephen Lee elevate familiar Newfoundland cooking with top-notch sourcing and technique. Sit on wooden spoke chairs in the back room, or take a seat in a dark, moody corner of the low-ceilinged front room and pick from the seasonal menu offering the best of Newfoundland produce, meat and fresh seafood.
Namjim
This pop-up-turned permanent fixture doesn’t claim to serve authentic Thai fare, but joyfully riffs on the Southeast Asian flavours it loves, incorporating East Coast seafood, greens and herbs into the mix. Shareable plates play off the hopped-up, fruity and sour brews of its host venue, Bannerman Brewing Co. For the full experience, try the Brewery Sink with sticky wings, fried tofu, smacked cucumbers, som tam salad, fries and rice. On summer nights, the large taproom opens onto an adjoining deck, and live folk music mingles with screeching gulls overhead to create a sort of outdoor Newfoundland kitchen party. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
Portage
Mauzy weather is the time for tucking into Ross Larkin and Celeste Mah’s local takes on dishes from away. Pork dumplings come with homemade XO sauce, donair spring rolls with famous sweet, garlicky sauce, this morning’s lobster is served on thick garlic Texas toast, and a bowl of whipped Newfoundland blueberry cheesecake with crunchy meringue comes dusted with local pineapple weed. “May be normal to you, but we can’t get anything like this here,” says my St. John’s dining companion. We can’t get this back home either. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Terre
When you enter Terre via the lobby of the ALT Hotel, the warmth envelops you. It’s a Newfoundland thing, embodied here by the sunset glow spilling through the wall of windows overlooking St. John’s Harbour, as well as in the earth tones of the sparsely decorated interior, where black tables are topped with sea urchin lamps made by subsea forager Tim Ball. Both chef Matthew Swift and sous Drew Wolfson Bell hail from Ontario and honed their trade at places like Vin Papillon and Joe Beef in Montreal. Swift was drawn to Newfoundland by the opportunity to open a cuisine du terroir, and arrived in St. John’s with ideas and experiences that show up on the Terre menu in dishes like Turkish bread with beets, ricotta and za’atar, or the playful, succulent lamb pastrami with local radishes. Listed as one of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2021.
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What to Do
Signal Hill Historic Site and Trails
Newfoundland is called the Rock for a reason: Climb Signal Hill at the east end of the city and you’ll realize exactly why. We suggest visiting historic Cabot Tower, the site of the first radio contact between the New World and Britain, then taking a hike. The challenging 1.7-kilometre North Head Trail clings to the red-rock cliffs, through the Narrows (that may have been in use as far back as the 1500s), the Battery and back to St. John’s Harbour.
Fred’s Records
Fred’s modest shopfront conceals a sprawling sonotheque with resounding wood floors that make their own tune as you creak and thump your way along the stacks of records. Hand-drawn signs call out Newfoundland, In Performance and Staff Picks sections, the latter chosen by the local musicians and artists who work there. Look for hard-to-find vinyl from homegrown artists like Mark Bragg or The Once.
Fishing for Success
Jig for cod with fourth-generation fisherman Leo Hearn in Petty Harbour. At the inshore fishing grounds, drop a line from your rowboat-size dory, sound your lure off the ocean floor, then haul up your catch, hand over hand. Pay attention as Hearn points out the landmarks that guided fishermen before fish-finders. Back on dry land, you’ll clean and salt your cod, then warm up with a cup of real fisherman’s stew.
Wallnuts Climbing Centre
Wallnuts Climbing Centre is located about 20 minutes from Flatrock – a town so friendly that cars stop if you even think about crossing the street. Graded by difficulty, the climbing trips range from a staircase to a climb that takes years of training, a specific gene pool and guts. The variety allows beginners as well as intermediate and experienced climbers of all ages to take advantage of the rocks.
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