Montreal
YUL
From worth–the–splurge restaurants to chewy, honey–boiled bagels, Montreal’s legendary food scene is a serious draw. Ditto the cobblestoned historic quarter, craft–beer boom and myriad music festivals. Explore neighbourhoods like Mile End, the Plateau and Mile–Ex to get a true feel for the local culture.
Where to Stay
- Quaint hotel room at Hotel Gault in Montreal, Quebec, CanadaHôtel GaultFor the oversized French windows
- An emerald couch with plum cushions sits in the Hotel St Paul lounge in MontrealHotel St PaulFor the beaux-arts architecture
- The homey lounge at the Vogue Hotel in MontrealVogue HotelFor the timeless elegance
- Fairmont The Queen ElizabethFor the far-out business digs
- Stylish bed at the W Montreal in Montreal, Quebec, CanadaW MontrealFor the tailored experience
- A luxurious suite at the Four Seasons Hotel in MontrealFour Seasons Hotel MontrealFor a lavish stay
- The stylish lobby at Hotel William Gray in Old MontrealHotel William GrayFor the local flair
- Fully equipped, minimalist, loft-style suites at Boxotel, MontrealBoxotelFor the eco-friendly rooms
- The indoor pool at Warwick le Crystal in MontrealWarwick Le CrystalFor an extended stay
Eat & Drink
Mastard
The French name of the restaurant translates to “big, husky person,” and the two adjectives describe chef Simon Mathys’ outsize presence in the Quebec culinary landscape as well as his love for it. His passion for local ingredients is palpable in dishes like the thick, ruby–red slice of tomato from La Ferme des Quatre–Temps, adorned in herbs and flowers and resting in a pool of camelina oil. A pour of hot, fragrant smoked–beef fat turns it into a salad with a sheen of cow – both fresh and elemental. Even the way Mathys acknowledges his entire staff on the menu is at one with this soulful and honest place. Listed as one of the Top 10 Canada’s Best New Restaurants of 2022.
Elena
To see what’s making Montreal buzz, step into the electric Italian–modern comfort of Elena, a pizza and pasta restaurant from the Nora Gray team. Sit between a couture–cloaked Westmount family and a tattooed mother and son and chow down blistered, naturally leavened pizza showered with six kinds of mushrooms, celery root and taleggio; handmade mafalda with a pork and beef sugo; and zabaglione with marsala, rhubarb, strawberries and custard. The natural and biodynamic wine list is a liquid lecture on the purity, snap and vibrant acidity these wines can achieve. This is what it’s like to see a chef and her team at the top of their game. Listed as one of the Top 10 Canada’s Best New Restaurants of 2018.
Sachère Desserts
Tucked away in the Village, this cozy (vegan–friendly) bakery is a little slice of heaven that draws on Asian–European inspiration. Owner Sonya Sammut takes cakes to the next level by ditching the buttercream and mounting them with velvety–smooth ganache. Not just pretty to look at, they feature mouthwatering flavours – like their signature cake, the Sacher Torte. Pair your coffee with a classic pastry or have fun choosing between the tarts of the day. In the summer, cool down with a refreshing ice–cream twist in cone or cup.
St–Viateur Bagel
This shop has been hand–rolling bagels and baking them in a wood–burning oven since 1957. Locals, tourists and celebrities alike (it’s got Celine Dion’s and William Shatner’s seal of approval) pop into the 24–hour bakery for a dozen to go or an on–the–spot carb fix after a night on the town.
J’ai Feng
If you manage to wrangle one of just four stools at this Little Italy grocery store, prepare yourself for super–slippery and explosive noodle bowls, which are bound to splatter as you hurry them into your mouth. Menus change at the whim of chef Anita Yue Ming Feng: We got chunks of tender braised beef, daikon and Chinese five spice in one dish, and silky shards of tofu, green peas, pickled mustard greens and Sichuan peppercorns in another. Throw in some cooling salads from the grocery side of the shop and a just–sweet–enough Japanese dessert from Pâtisserie Maru and, though it’s only lunchtime, you won’t be “Feng” (a.k.a. “faim,” French for hungry) for the rest of the day. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
Vin Mon Lapin
The green of potted plants dapples the white walls of this Little Italy oasis, where stellar natural wines play off layered flavours and textures. A dazzling salad of endive, caramelized pumpkin seeds, pickled elderberries and shaved foie gras matches with the creamy minerality of a Loire Valley Domaine du Haut–Planty muscadet, while aromatic Jerusalem–artichoke bread topped with sunflower crumble finds a partner in a sunflower butter. No reservation? No problem. The Mon Lapin servers will come by with words of encouragement and magnum pours of pet nat while you wait, making you feel like the centre of the party. Listed as one of the Top 10 Canada’s Best New Restaurants of 2018.
Emmanuelle Lounge
On the 5th floor of the glass–encased 2–22 building, Emmanuelle is a lounge and not a bar, nor a typical restaurant, and even less a club. The chic interior features leather sofas and low tables, while the menu highlights refined small dishes like oysters with caviar and sour cream, a foie gras and strawberry tart, green pea agnolotti and wagyu tartare. The concept was imagined by industry veteran Donald Lauture, with design by Atelier Zebulon Perron and a menu signed by Chef Nicolas Bramos.
Pichai
With a shoutout to Bangkok’s storefront aluminum roller shutters and curry shop tiles, this new spot from the team behind Épicerie Pumpui exudes a retro magic pumped up by the dance and alt–music soundtrack. A sweet, sour and herbaceous laab ped made with minced duck meat and duck hearts satisfies our craving for the electric flavours of Bangkok, while a dish of tender grilled veal tongue with a gentle nam jim tao jiao (fermented soy and garlic–tamarind dipping sauce) takes us to a mellow beachside resort. Cheerful service and the fine bubbles of a Chemin des Sept Turbo Brut cider add to the night’s sparkle. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
Wills Beer
This urban brewery in Montreal’s burgeoning Mile–Ex neighbourhood comes care of cousins Alex and Ethan Wills (cofounder of lauded restaurant Larry’s), who both live steps away. Grab some cans at the bottle shop – perfect for a picnic in a nearby park – or take a seat at Wills Bar next door to get a taste of the laid–back life. Fun fact: The retro–chic logo was inspired by Alex’s uncle, Ernst Barenscher, the man behind iconic Canadian designs like Ontario’s trillium symbol.
Dalla Rose
Nora Gray alums chef Mike Dalla Libera and former general manager Nick Rosati spin handmade artisanal ice cream daily using milk sourced from northern Quebec at this Saint–Henri hot spot. The crèmerie has a rotating selection of seasonal flavours (including two vegan options), like sponge toffee, Quebec lavender and vegan haskap.
Nita
Every sandwich is made from scratch at this unpretentious Mile End spot (named after chef and cofounder Jessiah MacDonald’s grandmother), down to the fresh–baked bread, cold cuts and condiments. There’s also a custom blended filter coffee, seasonal sodas and a wall of private import wines, to–go or by–the–glass. Order a “Sandwich du Moment” or permanent classics like veggie paté, gravlax and the ridiculously addictive breakfast sandwich, with or without sausage patty.
Larrys
Start your morning with a cappuccino made with Portland’s Heart Roaster beans, then head back in the evening, friends in tow. Wash down small plates, like the beef tartare or the Albacore ceviche, with a selection from the natural–centric wine list, a pint of Pippin cider or a glass of Ontarian riesling beer.
Gia Vin & Grill
The team behind Nora Gray and Elena once again demonstrates its unerring sense of what hip Montreal wants to eat, here with an irresistible menu centred on arrosticini (grilled skewered meat of the Abruzzo region of Italy). Yet, in this converted cinder–block building in the historic RCA complex, the antipasti (crunchy fish croquettes on a dill–scented yogurt aioli or fresh radishes nestled in a bed of both emulsified and toasted hazelnuts, drizzled with honey), pastas (garlic, mint and chili–spiked spinach bucatini) and natural wines are equally essential to the chill, happy buzz. Longlisted as part of Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
Champs
This long–time Boulevard Saint–Laurent watering hole got a major facelift when it was bought by a group of friends who wanted to make a new generation of sports fans feel welcome. Renovations were done with care – you will still find pool tables, beer and graffiti, but also a respectable wine list and tons of LGBTQ+ friendly events. Expect MMA fights and NHL games on the overhead screens, but also regular nights like Drag Race watch parties, queer line dancing, film screenings and clothing swaps.
What to Do
Mount Royal Park
In the summer months, bring your kids on a gentle hike to the summit for unbeatable views of the city. Then, head toward Beaver Lake for an afternoon picnic and let your little ones roam freely. In the winter months, explore the mountain while cross–country skiing along its various trails, go for a skate on Beaver Lake or toboggan down the designated slopes nearby.
The Biodome
Located in Montreal’s Olympic Park, this eco–minded living museum is beloved by Montrealers and tourists alike, who rejoiced when it reopened in late 2020 after two years of renovations. The renewed space houses five ecosystems to explore, containing over 2,500 animals, including beavers, turtles, fruit bats and penguins (you have to walk through an icy tunnel to reach them). Find other “Space for Life” sites nearby: the Planetarium, Insectarium and Botanical Garden, plus the iconic Biosphere dome across town.
Letter Bet
Part gallery and part boutique, this seriously stylish Saint–Henri store invites you to beautify your life with sleek streetwear and striking original works by up–and–coming artists.
Casa Del Popolo
Founded in 2000 by Godspeed You! Black Emperor bassist Mauro Pezzente and wife Kiva Stimac, the “House of the People” is a family–run vegetarian restaurant, bar, art gallery and music venue. Stop by in the afternoon for a vegetarian burrito and a pint of beer, then come back at night to catch up–and–coming local and touring musical acts perform on stage.
Sabbya
Science meets self–care at this dreamy 8,000–square–foot spa in Montreal’s Village neighbourhood. Find a compact but comprehensive thermal spa circuit, an adaptogen bar offering goodies like superfood–studded date truffles, salon services for every gender, and a lengthy menu of medical aesthetics treatments. Whether you want a Swedish massage and a body wrap or treatments that go more than skin deep, the spa’s warm yet polished spaces (designed by Studio Lafleur) will soothe you while you wait.
Phi Centre
Housed in a historic building built by John Ogilvy in 1861, the Phi Centre is a multidisciplinary complex with a mission to make art accessible to as many people as possible. Look for screenings of international Cannes–awarded films and browse pop–up shops featuring products by emerging designers.
Ssense
Shop fresh pieces from coveted brands across fashion, lifestyle, home and self‑care at this high‑end Old Montreal emporium, which also hosts immersive installations and events. Drop in to browse or book a complimentary appointment with a personal stylist.
Cinema Moderne
This hidden gem of a movie theatre is nestled between Mile End’s best bakeries and boutiques, and makes the perfect complement to a day of exploring the neighbourhood. The schedule is a consistent mix of cult classics, new indie releases and film festival premieres, with titles from across Canada and abroad. For family–friendly fare, check out “The Petit Modernes” series on weekends. Bonus: There’s a café and cocktail bar, with snacks and drinks welcome in the 54–seat theatre.
Bar Datcha
Head to the only club in Mile End, order a Berghain cocktail (named after the famous Berlin nightclub), made with vodka and yerba mate, and show off your moves on the dance floor. Make sure to head there on Thursday for an evening of jazz and tarot.