Montreal
From worth-the-splurge restaurants to chewy, honey-boiled bagels, Montreal’s legendary food scene is a serious draw. Ditto the cobblestoned historic quarter, craft-beer boom and myriad music festivals. Explore neighbourhoods like Mile End, the Plateau and Mile-Ex to get a true feel for the local culture.
Where to Stay
Hôtel Gault
Hotel St Paul
Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth
W Montreal
Four Seasons Hotel Montreal
Hotel William Gray
Boxotel
Warwick Le Crystal
Eat & Drink
Sponsored
Le Pois Penché
Le Pois Penché has become an institution in Montreal’s downtown core, renowned for its French brasserie classics like steak frites, onion soup, duck confit and beef tartare. Steps away from the city’s finest hotels, its elegant dining room and summer patio are a popular social hub where visitors and locals converge for lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch (don’t miss the house-smoked salmon with poached eggs). Named by TimeOut as one of Montreal’s best French restaurants and listed as one of the city’s best spots for steak, it’s also among OpenTable’s 100 most popular brunch restaurants in Canada.
9 Tail Fox
This packed Korean tapas spot is like a glass of its orange wine: different, a little unstructured, but ultimately delicious. Chefs move around the open kitchen like the Blue Man Group, crisping tempura oyster mushrooms, and banging pans of kimchi-bacon fried rice and wok hei-tinged duck hearts with garlic scapes. Legend has it the kumiho, or nine-tailed fox, represented here in pink neon above the corner lot door, was sent to seduce. The story checks out. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Anemone
It’s a Thursday night at 8:30 p.m. and there are two couples making out at the bar. The music is pulsing indie pop by Bon Enfant; an open garage door leads to twinkly string lights on the backyard patio. Order a bottle of natural Vin Nouveau l’Orange, a few temaki rolls filled with delicious things like beef topped with crispy little frites, and warm roasted bone marrow stuffed with a cool salad of Matane shrimp and spring onion. This place is a whole vibe. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Sponsored
40 Westt
Located just minutes away from Pierre Elliot Trudeau, 40 Westt is the perfect spot to kick off or wrap up a visit to Montreal. From the open kitchen to the majestic vaulted ceilings, the dining rooms invite all special occasions. The menu is no different: Known for its dry-aged steak, 40 Westt offers an array of cuts – not to mention a list of sides ranging from their signature garlic mashed potatoes to wild mushroom ragout. Not a fan of steak? Try the shellfish platters or fresh fish market. There’s also a weeknight table d’hote.
Bonheur d’occasion
Bonheur d’occasion (The Tin Flute) was a novel of urban social consciousness set during WWII in Saint-Henri. From the vantage point of this whitewashed bistro, the neighbourhood’s grit is mostly gone — it has the happy feel of talented friends pursuing a dream. Snow crab sandwiches on homemade buns have a gentle whiff of Maritime Quebec, a platter of juicy roast duck and crushed olives arrives with fragrant shiso leaves in lieu of Peking pancakes. Wafer-thin puff pastry, maple sugar and gobs of sweet clover cream are a modern masterpiece. Listed in the Top 10 of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Cabaret L’Enfer
Sprinkled with fresh pink rose petals, the fish course is a mindbender, the aroma more Dior than wild striped bass. With its sauce of locally grown saffron and stinging nettles, what it shares with the other six courses is chef Massimo Piedimonte’s urban take on terroir. Charlevoix lamb is cured and fire-roasted; lobster-stuffed cappellacci tastes like the essence de homard. Asparagus is prepared five ways in one tiny bowl, and there are two playful desserts (parsley sorbet, skull meringue), every bite a Montreal moment. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Champs
This long-time Boulevard Saint-Laurent watering hole got a major facelift when it was bought by a group of friends who wanted to make a new generation of sports fans feel welcome. Renovations were done with care – you will still find pool tables, beer and graffiti, but also a respectable wine list and tons of LGBTQ+ friendly events. Expect MMA fights and NHL games on the overhead screens, but also regular nights like Drag Race watch parties, queer line dancing, film screenings and clothing swaps.
Dalla Rose
Nora Gray alums chef Mike Dalla Libera and former general manager Nick Rosati spin handmade artisanal ice cream daily using milk sourced from northern Quebec at this Saint-Henri hot spot. The crèmerie has a rotating selection of seasonal flavours (including two vegan options), like sponge toffee, Quebec lavender and vegan haskap.
Emmanuelle Lounge
On the 5th floor of the glass-encased 2-22 building, Emmanuelle is a lounge and not a bar, nor a typical restaurant, and even less a club. The chic interior features leather sofas and low tables, while the menu highlights refined small dishes like oysters with caviar and sour cream, a foie gras and strawberry tart, green pea agnolotti and wagyu tartare. The concept was imagined by industry veteran Donald Lauture, with design by Atelier Zebulon Perron and a menu signed by Chef Nicholas Bramos.
Gia Vin & Grill
The team behind Nora Gray and Elena once again demonstrates its unerring sense of what hip Montreal wants to eat, here with an irresistible menu centred on arrosticini (grilled skewered meat of the Abruzzo region of Italy). Yet, in this converted cinder-block building in the historic RCA complex, the antipasti (crunchy fish croquettes on a dill-scented yogurt aioli or fresh radishes nestled in a bed of both emulsified and toasted hazelnuts, drizzled with honey), pastas (garlic, mint and chili-spiked spinach bucatini) and natural wines are equally essential to the chill, happy buzz. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
J’ai Feng
If you manage to wrangle one of just four stools at this Little Italy grocery store, prepare yourself for super-slippery and explosive noodle bowls, which are bound to splatter as you hurry them into your mouth. Menus change at the whim of chef Anita Yue Ming Feng: We got chunks of tender braised beef, daikon and Chinese five spice in one dish, and silky shards of tofu, green peas, pickled mustard greens and Sichuan peppercorns in another. Throw in some cooling salads from the grocery side of the shop and a just-sweet-enough Japanese dessert from Pâtisserie Maru and, though it’s only lunchtime, you won’t be “Feng” (a.k.a. “faim,” French for hungry) for the rest of the day. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
Larrys
Start your morning with a cappuccino made with Portland’s Heart Roaster beans, then head back in the evening, friends in tow. Wash down small plates, like the beef tartare or the Albacore ceviche, with a selection from the natural-centric wine list, a pint of Pippin cider or a glass of Ontarian riesling beer.
Mastard
The French name of the restaurant translates to “big, husky person,” and the two adjectives describe chef Simon Mathys’ outsize presence in the Quebec culinary landscape as well as his love for it. His passion for local ingredients is palpable in dishes like the thick, ruby-red slice of tomato from La Ferme des Quatre-Temps, adorned in herbs and flowers and resting in a pool of camelina oil. A pour of hot, fragrant smoked-beef fat turns it into a salad with a sheen of cow – both fresh and elemental. Even the way Mathys acknowledges his entire staff on the menu is at one with this soulful and honest place. Listed in the Top 10 of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
Le Molière par Mousso
An A-Team of Quebec chefs – Antonin Mousseau-Rivard and Daniel Vézina – rolled up to the Quartier des Spectacles and created a Parisian-style brasserie for the ages. Édith Piaf plays on repeat as grandes dames enjoy glasses of rosé with their Doré meunière, couples slurp back Veuve and oysters at the bar, and proud grandparents treat their granddaughter to spit-roasted chicken. A giant craquelin-topped profiterole, stuffed with thick cream and vanilla ice cream, is drenched in warm chocolate sauce. Instant classique. Listed in the Top 10 of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Les Mômes
Your bottle is immediately placed in colourful tabletop silicone chillers at this vintage-inspired BYOB spot, run by a couple with an eco-friendly ethos. Enticing combinations of local ingredients show up in beef tartare spun with the gentle tang of sea urchin, and tuna seared and served in a bright sauce vierge. Homey pan-seared gnocchi is the house specialty, tossed with braised lamb and pops of cherry tomatoes tonight. In this lively Villeray atmosphere, staff act like nice neighbours as they drop off a sweet religieuse for dessert. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Nita
Every sandwich is made from scratch at this unpretentious Mile End spot (named after chef and cofounder Jessiah MacDonald’s grandmother), down to the fresh-baked bread, cold cuts and condiments. There’s also a custom blended filter coffee, seasonal sodas and a wall of private import wines, to-go or by-the-glass. Order a “Sandwich du Moment” or permanent classics like veggie paté, gravlax and the ridiculously addictive breakfast sandwich, with or without sausage patty.
Pichai
With a shoutout to Bangkok’s storefront aluminum roller shutters and curry shop tiles, this new spot from the team behind Épicerie Pumpui exudes a retro magic pumped up by the dance and alt-music soundtrack. A sweet, sour and herbaceous laab ped made with minced duck meat and duck hearts satisfies our craving for the electric flavours of Bangkok, while a dish of tender grilled veal tongue with a gentle nam jim tao jiao (fermented soy and garlic-tamarind dipping sauce) takes us to a mellow beachside resort. Cheerful service and the fine bubbles of a Chemin des Sept Turbo Brut cider add to the night’s sparkle. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
St-Viateur Bagel
This shop has been hand-rolling bagels and baking them in a wood-burning oven since 1957. Locals, tourists and celebrities alike (it’s got Celine Dion’s and William Shatner’s seal of approval) pop into the 24-hour bakery for a dozen to go or an on-the-spot carb fix after a night on the town.
Wills Beer
This urban brewery in Montreal’s burgeoning Mile-Ex neighbourhood comes care of cousins Alex and Ethan Wills (cofounder of lauded restaurant Larry’s), who both live steps away. Grab some cans at the bottle shop – perfect for a picnic in a nearby park – or take a seat at Wills Bar next door to get a taste of the laid-back life. Fun fact: The retro-chic logo was inspired by Alex’s uncle, Ernst Barenscher, the man behind iconic Canadian designs like Ontario’s trillium symbol.
What to Do
Sponsored
Centre Eaton de Montréal
Nestled in the downtown core, Centre Eaton de Montréal is a must-visit address with over 125 shops featuring both global and local brands. It’s also home to Canada’s first Time Out Market, a vibrant food hall showcasing the best of the city’s culinary scene, as well as “le neuvième”, an iconic art deco restaurant on the ninth floor.
Mount Royal Park
In the summer months, bring your kids on a gentle hike to the summit for unbeatable views of the city. Then, head toward Beaver Lake for an afternoon picnic and let your little ones roam freely. In the winter months, explore the mountain while cross-country skiing along its various trails, go for a skate on Beaver Lake or toboggan down the designated slopes nearby.
The Biodome
Located in Montreal’s Olympic Park, this eco-minded living museum is beloved by Montrealers and tourists alike, who rejoiced when it reopened in late 2020 after two years of renovations. The renewed space houses five ecosystems to explore, containing over 2,500 animals, including beavers, turtles, fruit bats and penguins (you have to walk through an icy tunnel to reach them). Find other “Space for Life” sites nearby: the Planetarium, Insectarium and Botanical Garden, plus the iconic Biosphere dome across town.
Espace Nomad
An oasis in the heart of the Plateau, Espace Nomad has been perfecting the art of wellness for over 20 years. This multi-level spa is renowned for its holistic approach and eco-conscious ethos, reflected in its organic body scrubs and wraps, specialized facials, bio-gel manicures and pedicures and wide range of massage options. The spa’s cozy, minimalist décor creates the perfect ambiance for unwinding in style.
Letter Bet
Part gallery and part boutique, this seriously stylish Saint-Henri store invites you to beautify your life with sleek streetwear and striking original works by up-and-coming artists.
Casa Del Popolo
Founded in 2000 by Godspeed You! Black Emperor bassist Mauro Pezzente and wife Kiva Stimac, the “House of the People” is a family-run vegetarian restaurant, bar, art gallery and music venue. Stop by in the afternoon for a vegetarian burrito and a pint of beer, then come back at night to catch up-and-coming local and touring musical acts perform on stage.
Sabbya
Science meets self-care at this dreamy 8,000-square-foot spa in Montreal’s Village neighbourhood. Find a compact but comprehensive thermal spa circuit, an adaptogen bar offering goodies like superfood-studded date truffles, salon services for every gender, and a lengthy menu of medical aesthetics treatments. Whether you want a Swedish massage and a body wrap or treatments that go more than skin deep, the spa’s warm yet polished spaces (designed by Studio Lafleur) will soothe you while you wait.
Phi Centre
Housed in a historic building built by John Ogilvy in 1861, the Phi Centre is a multidisciplinary complex with a mission to make art accessible to as many people as possible. Look for screenings of international Cannes-awarded films and browse pop-up shops featuring products by emerging designers.
Ssense
Shop fresh pieces from coveted brands across fashion, lifestyle, home and self‑care at this high‑end Old Montreal emporium, which also hosts immersive installations and events. Drop in to browse or book a complimentary appointment with a personal stylist.
Cinema Moderne
This hidden gem of a movie theatre is nestled between Mile End’s best bakeries and boutiques, and makes the perfect complement to a day of exploring the neighbourhood. The schedule is a consistent mix of cult classics, new indie releases and film festival premieres, with titles from across Canada and abroad. For family-friendly fare, check out “The Petit Modernes” series on weekends. Bonus: There’s a café and cocktail bar, with snacks and drinks welcome in the 54-seat theatre.
Bar Datcha
Head to the only club in Mile End, order a Berghain cocktail (named after the famous Berlin nightclub), made with vodka and yerba mate, and show off your moves on the dance floor. Make sure to head there on Thursday for an evening of jazz and tarot.