Halifax
YHZ
Proud Halifax locals (known as Haligonians), many of whom have come from other parts of Nova Scotia, have a great quality of life: Sea breezes keep the air clean; leafy, manicured parks and gardens nestle between heritage buildings; there’s a thriving arts, theatre and culinary scene; and the numerous pubs, with their craft-brew culture and love for bands, quite simply, go off.
Eat & Drink
Drift
That snug sense of home you feel at this luxe Maritime seafood outpost comes from being hugged from above by a curved, oak-planked facsimile of a ship’s hull. It’s not just the modern-yet-warm interior that welcomes, but the way the sure-handed crew takes you under its wing, steering you to dishes like steamed P.E.I. mussels and frites, shrimp and lobster cake with chow chow and brown-butter tartar sauce, or the bronzed halibut atop steamed greens and bubble and squeak. Pair them with a Blomidon Estate Winery Tidal Bay white and feel the crisp air and sunshine of Nova Scotia on your face. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2022.
Bicycle Thief
Chef Maurizio serves up North American food with an Italian twist at this Bishop’s Landing eatery. Dishes like Italian seafood stew with lobster and short ribs braised in Barolo pair perfectly with any number of bottles on the lengthy wine list. This waterfront destination has an outdoor champagne bar in the summer, which transforms into a Fire and Ice bar, complete with fur blankets and warm libations, in the winter.
Edna
Diners wash down plump Tatamagouche oysters with flutes of Benjamin Bridge Sparkling in Edna’s salvaged-wood dining room. The bistro menu draws from the region’s land (P.E.I. Blue Dot rib-eye steak) and sea (baked Malagash clams). Not to be missed, desserts like the pistachio and orange chocolate mousse, or the apple upside-down cake.
Fawn
The menu seems scattered, but our friendly server explains it’s comfort food because whatever you’re craving, they’ve got it: “Sometimes you feel like a shrimp cocktail, sometimes you want a burger.” Or a burbling cheesy crab dip with Ritz, an equally relaxing American Negroni, and who knows how they got the chicken Milanese so crunchy? The pretty room by Bricks + Birches is a wash of windows, airy pinks and rust. Lemon meringue pie has the fun frills of a Vivienne Westwood design, so don’t skip dessert. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Salt & Ash Beach House
Behold Halifax’s latest big development, the glassy Queen’s Marque on the waterfront, where Florida meets Nova Scotia. Hostesses in matching mom jeans and cable-knit sweaters march you along pale oak flooring past the wood fire in the open kitchen. Seared scallops with crispy sage, grapes and capers, over cauliflower purée, is a plate-licker. Fire-roasted Brussels sprouts, glazed in honey and mezcal, are as smoky as a 1950s pool hall. Duos in cocktail dresses and families in sweatshirts define something for everyone. Longlisted as part of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.
Stillwell
Offering 12 taps of local and Canadian craft beer (along with a few imports), Stillwell is the city’s premier beer bar. Pair your lager with an order of Tokyo Fries or the Okonomiyaki Fries, served with Kewpie mayo, sriracha, nori and katsuobushi. In the warmer months, Stillwell’s second location, the Beergarden on Spring Garden Road, is the ultimate spot to enjoy a local pilsner at the communal alfresco tables.
Two if by Sea
Though a scenic ferry trip across the harbour is reason enough to visit this downtown Dartmouth café, it’s the colossal croissants that have attracted a cult following. Rub elbows with locals at the communal table, and sip espresso made with direct-trade beans roasted at neighbouring Anchored Coffee.
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What to Do
Discovery Centre
Recently rebuilt in a large industrial glass- and steel-lined space on the Halifax Waterfront, the three-level Discovery Centre takes family fun to new heights. Stargaze in the Dome Theatre, build a circuit in the Innovation Lab or let toddlers run free as they explore interactive exhibits on everything from farming to acting.
Lunenburg
Located one hour from the city, Old Town Lunenburg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Colourful historic buildings line the narrow streets, where artist studios abound (don’t miss the souvenirs at Dots & Loops) and local seafood shines (try the Digby clams at the South Shore Fish Shack). Minutes before the exit to Lunenburg, take a detour to Mahone Bay for sweeping views of the bay and its many islands.
Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market
Recently relocated to Pavilion 23, on Halifax’s waterfront, the farmers’ market is a bustling hub of farmers, butchers, bakers and artisans. Taste the award-winning aged Gouda from That Dutchman’s Cheese Farm and vintage wine from one of Nova Scotia’s vineyards. Lunch from one of the many food stalls – the Korean bowls at Masita come highly recommended – is best enjoyed overlooking the water. The market is open year-round on Saturdays and Sundays.
Halifax Common
An expansive green space in the middle of the city, the Halifax Common has it all: a swimming pool, playground and skate park as well as tennis courts, baseball diamonds, soccer fields and water fountains. Emera Oval, the largest artificial outdoor skating rink east of Quebec, has free skate rentals in the winter and doubles as a track in the warmer months.
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic
Located on the waterfront, the museum houses permanent exhibits dedicated to preserving Halifax’s maritime heritage. Immerse yourself in the history of boat building or learn how the 1917 Halifax explosion changed the face of the city. Titanic: The Unsinkable Ship, a captivating exhibit showcasing items found washed up onshore, details Halifax’s role in the tragedy and offers a glimpse into life aboard the iconic vessel.
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