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Proud Halifax locals (known as Haligonians), many of whom have come from other parts of Nova Scotia, have a great quality of life: Sea breezes keep the air clean; leafy, manicured parks and gardens nestle between heritage buildings; there's a thriving arts, theatre and culinary scene and the numerous pubs, with their craft‑brew culture and love for bands, quite simply, go off.
Where to stay
Croissants at Two if by Sea Though a scenic ferry trip across the harbour is reason enough to visit this downtown Dartmouth café, it’s the colossal croissants that have attracted a cult following. Rub elbows with locals at the communal table, and sip espresso made with direct-trade beans roasted at neighbouring Anchored Coffee.
Tokyo Fries at Stillwell Offering 12 taps of local and Canadian craft beer (along with a few imports), Stillwell is the city’s premier beer bar. Pair your lager with an order of Tokyo Fries or the Okonomiyaki Fries, served with Kewpie mayo, sriracha, nori and katsuobushi. In the warmer months, Stillwell’s second location, the Beergarden on Spring Garden Road, is the ultimate spot to enjoy a local pilsner at the communal alfresco tables.
Inventive Eggs Benedict at the Coastal Café This popular brunch spot serves up creative dishes, from bacon cheeseburger eggs Benny to the signature Elvis: slices of Montreal bacon, banana and peanut butter sandwiched between two buttermilk waffles. Expect to wait for one of the 20-odd seats. It’ll be more than worth it.
Tapas and amaro at Highwayman Halifax’s only Spanish-inspired restaurant features an extensive menu of traditional tapas and pintxos with a focus on local seafood. The cocktail list, including the Fernet Buck – a mix of Fernet-Branca, Benedictine, rye, ginger, pineapple and lemon – plus an appreciation for amaro put this bar at the forefront of the city’s cocktail culture. Arrive early; the no-reservations policy most certainly means a wait.
Seaside eats at Bicycle Thief Chef Maurizio serves up North American food with an Italian twist at this Bishop’s Landing eatery. Dishes like Italian seafood stew with lobster and short ribs braised in Barolo pair perfectly with any number of bottles on the lengthy wine list. This waterfront destination has an outdoor champagne bar in the summer, which transforms into a Fire and Ice bar, complete with fur blankets and warm libations, in the winter.
Oysters and bubbly at Edna Diners wash down plump Tatamagouche oysters with flutes of Benjamin Bridge Sparkling in Edna’s salvaged-wood dining room. Jenna Mooers’ bistro menu draws from Nova Scotia’s land (tender beets and salad greens from the Annapolis Valley) and sea (seared local albacore in a dashi). Her mother and long-time restaurateur, Jane Wright, contributes desserts like salt-flaked vegan chocolate mousse. Weekend brunch consistently draws a crowd.
Stargazing at Discovery Centre Recently rebuilt in a large, industrial glass and steel-lined space on the Halifax Waterfront, the three-level Discovery Centre takes family fun to new heights. Stargaze in the Dome Theatre, build a circuit in the Innovation Lab or let toddlers run free as they explore interactive exhibits on everything from farming to acting.
Day-trip to Lunenburg Located one hour from the city, Old Town Lunenburg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Colourful historic buildings line the narrow streets, where artist studios abound (don’t miss the souvenirs at Dots & Loops) and local seafood shines (try the Digby clams at the South Shore Fish Shack). Minutes before the exit to Lunenburg, take a detour to Mahone Bay for sweeping views of the bay and its many islands.
Fresh air at Halifax Common An expansive green space in the middle of the city, the Halifax Common has it all: a swimming pool, playground and skate park as well as tennis courts, baseball diamonds, soccer fields and water fountains. Emera Oval, the largest artificial outdoor skating rink east of Quebec, has free skate rentals in the winter and doubles as a track in the warmer months.
Steamed buns at Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market Housed in a bright building of floor-to-ceiling windows on Halifax’s waterfront, the farmers’ market is a bustling hub of farmers, butchers, bakers and artisans. Taste the award-winning aged Gouda from That Dutchman’s Cheese Farm and vintage wine from one of Nova Scotia’s vineyards. Lunch from one of the many food stalls – the steamed buns at Chenpapa come highly recommended – is best enjoyed on the rooftop patio. The market is open daily year-round (except on Mondays), but many vendors are only there on Saturdays.
Beer history at Alexander Keith’s Nova Scotia Brewery Take a walk through history at one of North America’s oldest breweries, which has operated out of the same building since 1820. Live music plays in the background as tour guides explain the brewing process behind popular pints like the India Pale Ale and Red Amber Ale.
Titanic flotsam at Maritime Museum of the Atlantic Located on the waterfront, the museum’s permanent exhibits are dedicated to preserving Halifax’s maritime heritage. Immerse yourself in the history of boat building or learn how the 1917 Halifax explosion changed the face of the city. Titanic: The Unsinkable Ship, a captivating exhibit showcasing items found washed up onshore, details Halifax’s role in the tragedy and offers a glimpse into life aboard the iconic vessel.
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