St. Regis Mumbai
For the new luxury
Mumbai
BOM
Mumbai vibrates with all the verve you’d expect from India’s biggest, wealthiest and most glamorous city (it’s the birthplace of Bollywood, after all). Grab a vada pav (a fried potato ball in a bun, the most popular street snack) and explore the colonial–era architecture. The coastal coordinates also mean there’s sand, surf and seaside sunset views, plus Elephanta Island’s forests and cave temples are but a ferry ride away.
Where to Stay
The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai
For the historic splendour
Le Sutra
For a more mellow location
Abode Bombay
For a boutique space downtown
The Trident, Nariman Point
For the seaside setting
Eat & Drink
Kala Ghoda Cafe
At this stylish south Bombay café, start your day with with Parsi-style akuri — scrambled eggs with tomato and coriander — and iced coffee, or a shot of organic wheatgrass. The coffee beans are sourced from Indian estates in the south; buy a bag to gift or bring home.
AER
At sunset, all of Mumbai is bathed in golden-red light, and the best place to take it all in is the rooftop bar of the Four Seasons, with a Negroni in hand. From the 34th floor, you have a bird’s-eye view of many historic neighbourhoods, including the old mill areas, as well as a million people heading home at rush hour.
Soam
Mumbai is a few hundred kilometres down the coast from the state of Gujarat, home to one of India’s great regional cuisines. But you can find a bright, modern twist on Gujarati fare in this small, always-packed eatery. The multigrain pancake, thalipeeth, is among the most popular choices.
Taj Sea Lounge
For decades, the city’s glitterati have descended upon this see-and-be-seen lounge for afternoon high tea. The finger foods range from classic scones with strawberry jam to kheema ghotala toasties, while the fine Darjeeling teas include the hard-to-find Castleton Second Flush.
The Bombay Canteen
There are no generic Indian dishes on the menu here, thanks to the freedom given to chef Hussain Shahzad (formerly of Eleven Madison Park in New York). Highlights include podi beef tartare with dosa — a thin savoury pancake made from black beans — tamarind dressing and smoked egg yolk, and thari, a veggie rice with roasted morels, rose vinegar and raita, a yogourt-based sauce served with spicy dishes. Reservations recommended.
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What to Do
The Royal Opera House
Reopened to the public after being shut up for three decades, this opulent historic venue now hosts concerts, plays and book launches in its spectacular red and gold auditorium. After the show, head to the courtyard café for wood-fired pizza, or walk five minutes to Chowpatty Beach for ice cream.
Sancha Tea Boutique
At this specialty shop, tea sommeliers offer complimentary tastings. They’ll take you through the nuances of more than 65 varieties of white, green, oolong, black and flavoured teas from India, including single-estates from Darjeeling and Assam.
Studio Malabar
The late Canadian singer Laura Hamilton, a legend in Mumbai’s art scene, arrived during World War II and never left. Studio Malabar, in the tony Malabar Hill neighbourhood, is a successor to her tasteful boutique at the Taj Palace, Malabar. Cushion covers in lush jamawar silk, Mughal-era-style hookah vases, and antique enamel milk cans compete for your eye across 2,000 square feet of Indian arts and artifacts.
Elephanta Caves
By Indian standards, Mumbai is a relatively young city — less than 400 years old. But a picturesque 10-km ferry ride east into the bay takes you 1,500 years back into time. Here, at the ethereal (and a little eerie) Elephanta Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the great gods of Hinduism are cast in giant relief.
Anokhi
With this Jaipur-based fashion label, India’s well-respected textile tradition meets contemporary styling. The label’s vivid block-print dresses and tunics, a testament to the skills of the company’s 800-plus artisans, are perfect for humid Mumbai nights.
Prithvi Theatre
This tiny, atmospheric playhouse in the suburbs is arguably India’s most beloved theatre — especially by actors, who appreciate the closeness of the audience. Prithvi hosts more than 500 shows a year, including old and new plays in the languages of Mumbai: English, Hindi, Marathi and Gujarati. You’ll also find an excellent bookshop, and an open-air café that buzzes at night.
Bombay Shirt Company
This Indian brand proves the secret of stylish Indian dressing is not just fine fabrics but also skillful tailoring. Founder Akshay Narvekar offers the best cotton, linen and denim, and dozens of options for cuts, cuffs and collars to make a shirt that’s yours alone.
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