Room at Hotel SP34 in Copenhagen, Denmark
Hotel SP34
For the wine hour
Colourful houses on an autumn day in Copenhagen
Copenhagen
CPH
If you’re expecting hygge at the source, you won’t be disappointed. After all, what could be cozier and more delightful than a city with a chain of porridge bars, a royal garden oasis and freewheeling bicycle culture? Of course, you’ll have to be less laid–back to snag a table at the best restaurants, where scoring reservations can feel like a competitive sport.
Where to Stay
- Room at Hotel Kong Arthur, Copenhagen, DenmarkHotel Kong ArthurFor the spa experience
- Room at Hotel Alexandra in Copenhagen, DenmarkHotel AlexandraFor the central location
- Room at Skt. Petri Hotel in CopengSkt. PetriFor the city views
- Exterior of Hotel Nimb at night in Copenhagen, DenmarkNimb HotelFor the amenities
- An interior view at the Wakeup Copenhagen Bernstorffsgade hotel.Wakeup Copenhagen BernstorffsgadeFor the budget-friendly rates
- The lobby of the Scandic Copenhagen hotel.Scandic CopenhagenFor the family-friendly suites
Eat & Drink
Cult–status carbs at Hart Bageri After leaving his post as head baker at Tartine in San Francisco, Richard Hart started this bakery in Frederiksberg that serves fresh takes on traditional Danish pastries. A line formed around the block on opening day and the buzz hasn’t waned, thanks to cardamom buns, glossy viennoiseries and Hart’s signature sourdough bread.
Hyper–regional fare at Kadeau Featuring locally foraged and farmed ingredients, the 17–course tasting menu at this double Michelin–starred restaurant celebrates the flavours of Bornholm, a Danish island off the coast of Sweden. (Kadeau has a second location on the island.) The menu is ever–changing, but expect seafood, preserves, Danish cheese and seasonal produce. Reservations are a must.
The city’s best beer at WarPigs Brewpub Locals and visitors alike flock to Warpigs, a hip brew pub in the Meatpacking District, for pints of their house–brewed beer and other offerings from some of Copenhagen’s best breweries. Grab a spot on the patio and order a six–beer flight, a sampling of the American–Danish–style draught beers from the bar’s 22 rotating taps. And don’t miss the daily selection of Texan BBQ, (think smoked brisket, pork shoulder and spare ribs) paired with your choice of four signature sauces.
Gourmet tacos at Hija de Sanchez Ex–Noma chef Rosio Sanchez serves the city’s most authentic tacos at her two outdoor taquerias, located in Kødbyen and Torvehallerne. Grab a spot at a picnic table and dig into the El Paul: crispy fish skin, gooseberry salsa, onion, cilantro and avocado. Or stick with the classic pork carnitas: braised pork belly, pasilla salsa, onion and cilantro.
Fresh smørrebrød at Copenhagen Street Food Cross the river to Paper Island to visit Copenhagen Street Food, a covered market full of food and drink stalls. (To get there, walk across the Inderhavnsbroen or Trangravsbroen bridges or take harbour bus 991 or 992.) Join the queue at Handmade for fresh smørrebrød topped with pickled herring, salmon and egg or head to OK Thai for a generous helping of pad Thai. Druêta serves oversize gin and tonics if you want to pair your lunch with a cocktail.
Happy hour at The Bird & the Churchkey This East London–inspired beer and gin bar near Nyhavn hosts a daily happy hour that offers many two–for–one drink specials. Grab a stool at the bar or sink into one of the vintage leather armchairs and order the Bitter Sweet Ginphony: Le Tribute Gin, Le Tribute Tonic, lemon peel and vanilla. Or let the staff happily guide you through the options.
Haute oatmeal at Grød A favourite breakfast spot among locals, Grød is a porridge café that serves a seemingly endless combination of toppings and flavours, with a focus on seasonal and local fruits. The chia–porridge rhubarb comes highly recommended, but you can create your own concoction with toppings like apple–vanilla compote, cocoa nibs, freeze–dried raspberries and caramel sauce. The restaurant is open from 7:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., so if you don’t want to wait in line, head there for a snack later in the afternoon when it’s less busy.
Michelin–starred Nordic cuisine at Relæ Reservations are a must at Relæ, named one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and one of Copenhagen’s finest restaurants. Choose a five– or nine–course menu featuring items like raw pike–perch with celeriac or poached aged duck served two ways. The restaurant is expensive, so save it for a special occasion.
Catch of the day at Kødbyens Fiskebar This relaxed spot in the Meatpacking District serves up some of the most delicious fish and shellfish in Copenhagen. The menu varies depending on the fresh catch. Past favourites include seared trout with Brussels sprouts and oyster mushrooms, and haddock with Jerusalem artichokes and fermented pear pearl barley.
Mostly vegetarian fare at Väkst Located in Hotel SP34, Väkst is a greenhouse restaurant in the Latin Quarter that offers farm–to–table cuisine. Chef Jonas Christensen’s menu is informal and mostly vegetarian with a focus on eco–friendly ingredients; think salt–baked kohlrabi with burnt hazelnut purée, organic buttermilk and white asparagus served with butterhead lettuce, fresh cheese and roasted yeast oil. Hanging potted plants, vines and natural light create a feeling of dining in a secret garden.
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What to Do
Picasso, Kusama and more at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art Located 35 km north of Copenhagen, Denmark's most visited art museum boasts an impressive permanent collection of 20th–century modern art, including a Yayoi Kusama installation and works by Pablo Picasso and Andy Warhol. The serene Sculpture Park, which features roughly 60 pieces by artists, including Max Ernst and Joan Miró, is worth the visit alone.
Fluted dinnerware at Royal Copenhagen Collectors of the world–famous Danish kitchenware brand, which dates back to the 18th century, flock to its flagship store for iconic hand–painted, royal blue porcelain plates and bowls. Shop pieces from fit–for–royalty Flora Danica – the line was originally commissioned by the king of Denmark–Norway in 1790 – along with more contemporary collections like HAV and Fluted Contrast.
Swimming in the sea baths at Islands Brygge Islands Brygge is a trendy neighbourhood next to the harbour and a popular spot for locals to sunbathe and swim in the harbour sea baths. With five baths in total (two reserved for children), it’s a unique city experience. Don’t miss a post–swim ice cream cone at Bryggen 11, which features unique flavours like licorice and white chocolate with blue birch and lemon.
Local food and drink at Torvehallerne This upscale version of Copenhagen Street Food is a bustling covered market chock full of artisanal food and drink stalls. Make like a local and head to Hallernes for smørrebrød piled high with herring and egg or roast beef. For a caffeine fix, go to the Coffee Collective, and stock up on pale ales from Mikkeller & Friends.
Cinnamon buns and day–tripping in Malmö, Sweden Take a 25–minute train ride from Copenhagen Airport to Malmö Centralstation in Sweden. When you arrive, make like a Swede and fika at Söderberg & Sara, a casual café that offers filter coffee made using locally–roasted beans and an array of freshly baked pastries. (Don’t miss the cinnamon buns.) Later brace yourself for a refreshing dip in the Ribersborgs Kallbadhus (public sea baths), but leave your swimsuit at home; it’s skinny–dipping only.
Designer housewares at Hay House For souvenirs, design lovers should head to Hay House, the flagship store of Scandinavian interiors brand Hay. Spread across the second and third floors of an apartment on Østergade, the boutique sells everything from rugs and designer pillows to geometric–shaped trays and vases.
Scandi fashion finds at Acne Archive Celebrating its neighbour’s best style export, Copenhagen’s Acne Archive is a must–see destination for Swedish fashion fans. The sleek outlet in Nørrebro stocks collections from previous seasons at a fraction of the price.
Art and boutiques in Nørrebro Spend an afternoon strolling through Nørrebro, Copenhagen’s hippest neighbourhood, teeming with art galleries, wine bars, restaurants and more. Then head to Jægersborggade Street and check out Superkilen, a public park that boasts a Moroccan fountain and Japanese sculpture, and CMYK kld, a gallery/store that sells posters and illustrations by Danish artists.
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