Get a Taste of Puerto Rico with a Thick Slab of Slow‑Roasted Pernil
There’s comfort in taking time you never had before to prepare a dish that’s guaranteed to transport you to another time and place. With BBQ season in mind, we bring you roast pork – Puerto Rican style.
The classic Puerto Rican pork roast (pernil) takes slow cooking to a whole new level. Getting a large pork shoulder cooked to crisp perfection can take a full day, but it’s worth the wait. And there will be leftovers.
Then, when we’re once again allowed to mingle, maybe a full pig roast will be in order. In Puerto Rico, there’s an entire highway devoted to just that.
Native to Spain, lechón, or spit‑roasted pig, is popular in most regions where Spanish colonists left their mark. But in Puerto Rico, lechón is a national dish – a family‑style feast that’s traditionally served at festivals. Follow the snaking mountain roads south of San Juan, however, and you’ll find a highway where every weekend brings a party worthy of the best bbq pork.
La Ruta de Lechón, or the Pork Highway, is about a 45‑minute drive from Puerto Rico’s capital, San Juan, in a rural area called Guavate. Here, a stretch of road spanning a few miles is hugged by a row of lechóneras (restaurants specializing in lechón).
Legend has it the Pork Highway began as a handful of neighbouring lechóneras and, as their numbers grew, so did the scale of their pig roast celebrations. Live music adds a party vibe to many of these spots, where Medalla beers flow on tap and diners spill out into the street, setting the scene for a massive community shindig.
In almost every restaurant window a golden roasted pig is displayed on a spit, each seasoned with a “secret” spice blend before being roasted over hot coals or an open flame for six to eight hours. (This technique gives the skin a crispy texture and a smoky flavour, while preserving the juicy tenderness of the inner meat.)
Most lechóneras serve their specialty cafeteria‑style, with diners ordering at the counter. They also offer traditional Puerto Rican sides like pastelón (a layered casserole dish made with plantains, ground beef and cheese), which is also a dish worth trying at home.
El Rancho Original As its name suggests, this lechónera is purported to have been the first to open on the highway, so you can see where it all began.
Los Pinos This local go‑to is a solid bet if you’re looking for a more low‑key vibe. Sides like the morcilla (blood sausage) are so good, they almost steal the show from the lechón.
El Mojito The pork is on‑point and, true to its name, this restaurant also makes killer mojitos.