Lenox, Massachusetts
Under the cover of green branches. The trees have grown in the wildest contortions and tell Gothic tales of war and violence and witchcraft and genocide and birth and belief. Somehow, they move in perfect unison as the road twists and turns in delightful curves and inclines.
Wharton was born Edith Newbold Jones. The expression “keeping up with the Joneses” is said to have been about her family. Her house was built during the Gilded Age, when American industrialists began to amass great fortunes. Her father was a real estate tycoon. She loved houses, too, and had a huge influence on the design of The Mount.
I knew it be grand, but I was still struck by the enormity of the white rectangular mansion. With the courtly feel of an Italian palazzo, it seemed decisively un–American. At the front entrance, an employee told us they were no longer admitting guests for the day. While my partner begged him, saying something about my dying wish to see this house, I slinked away. Out of the corner of his eye, he watched me hop over a red velvet rope and disappear up a staircase. Soon he was behind me, talking in whispers.
The drawing room was opulent, her bedroom – where she wrote – was huge and sunny, and the bathrooms were divine. There was even a guest room where Henry James would stay when he came to visit. But this house is haunted with sadness. At one point, it was a girls’ boarding school, and the girls who lived here were always reporting strange noises and voices. Afterward, a theatre company moved in, and the performers reported hearing the same types of sounds. It’s true that actors and children may be the most superstitious among us, but still!
For a time, Wharton lived here with a husband whose depression filled the house with a gloom no chandelier could illuminate. The social manners of the time could make women’s lives a series of contraventions. Wharton was harshly critiqued for her writing and discouraged from the enterprise altogether.
I turned to my partner and said, “I cannot marry you. I love you, darling, but I am already promised to a dullard.”
At that moment, a guard walked in. He escorted us out into a garden of manicured trees and geometric paths.
What a lovely, transcendent thing it is to be human, I thought, with the sense that we had just pulled back the curtain on The Wizard of Oz. Instead of being shocked by the fact that writers are mortal, I was infinitely amazed. That any home can be the place where great writing is created. That pens are magic wands that wiggle around and conjure worlds out of air. Worlds that turn every book cover into a door you can walk through to stay for a while.